Dine Magazine New York

James Kent Wins Bocuse d’Or USA

On Saturday, February 6, 2010, James Kent and his commis Tom Allan both of New York’s Eleven Madison Park won the honor of representing the United States in the 2011 Bocuse d’Or championship in Lyon, France.  The competition, held at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY, brought together 12 of America’s best up-and-coming chefs to create two dishes: one fish and one lamb each accompanied by elaborate side dishes.  The chefs had five and half hours over two days to prepare their meals which were judged by an all-star panel of chefs including Daniel Boulud and Thomas Keller among others.

The competition was held in the gymnasium of the CIA in an atmosphere reminiscent of the NCAA championships.  The capacity crowd cheered on their favorites with cowbells and, not surprisingly, pots and pans.  Between rounds, adoring CIA students swamped the celebrity judges for autographs on hats, books and in some cases, body parts. Chef Gavin Kaysen of Café Boulud (and former Bocuse d’Or competitor) and Kelly Choi of Top Chef Masters served as ringmasters – tough duty for a competition lasting over 10 hours.  Chef Kaysen admitted to missing the competition and even teased that he might be back to compete.

For Chef Kent, the hard work is just beginning.  He starts a one-year training program culminating in the championships to be held January 25-26, 2011 in Lyon.  According to renowned Chef Andre Soltner who will serve as one of the chef mentors, his job will be to keep Chef Kent “modest.”

Chef Kent won with two stellar presentations:  Scottish “Label Rouge” Salmon Pavé with Leeks, Osetra Caviar and Sauce Fumet Blanc garnished with: Roulade with Alaskan King Crab, Relish of Cucumber and Meyer Lemon; Chilled Mousse with Tartare and Roe; Pickled Heirloom Beets with Crème Fraiche, Dill and Black Pepper.

His beautifully presented lamb platter consisted of Elysian Fields Farm Spring Lamb: Bacon Wrapped Saddle with Piquillo Peppers and Provençale Herbes; Vol-Au-Vent of Braised Gigot with Sweetbreads and Preserved Lemon; Zucchini with Lynnhaven Chèvre Frais and Mint; Tart of Tomato Confit with Basil, Niçoise Olives and Fromage Blanc.   When this plate was presented, the crowd around me audibly gasped.

Second place was won by Luke Bergman of New York’s Modern Restaurant and third place by Chef Christopher Parsons of Catch in Winchester, MA.  Both Chef Kent’s Eleven Madison Park and Chef Bergman’s Modern are owned by Danny Meyer’s Union Square Restaurant Group.

Marcella Ogrodnik, a student at the Culinary Institute of America was named best commis.  Marcella was an obvious crowd favorite:  chants of “Marcella” could be heard throughout her round with Chef Michael Clauss.  Chef Jennifer Petrusky of Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago received a great birthday present: the award for Best Fish.  Chef Petrusky, the only female chef in the competition, had previously competed in the Bocuse d’Or USA as a commis for Chef Michael Rotondo.  The second time was also a charm for Chef Percy Whatley of the Ahwahnee in Yosemite, CA who won for Best Meat.  Chef Whatley had competed in the 2008 Bocuse d’Or USA.